Barcelona Photoblog: costa brava
Showing posts with label costa brava. Show all posts
Showing posts with label costa brava. Show all posts

July 09, 2019

Perfect Holidays on Costa Brava? Come to Blanes!

Sightseeing boat at Blanes beach in Costa Brava, Catalonia, Spain

If you are planning your vacation on Costa Brava, the town of Blanes should be on your list not just because it has a long and wide beach from where sightseeing boats like this depart or because you can find budget accommodation in all inclusive hotels or in a nice Catalan villa, but also due to the fact that the door to Costa Brava, as it is known Blanes, has much more to offer than you could think of:

First of all, its Mediterranean history, a history that tells us of Iberian settlements upon whose ruins Romans built an oppidum, "an ancient Roman provincial town lacking self-government, especially one having walls and fortifications and serving as a provincial strong point" (Merriam - Webster), which they called Blanda or Blandae after a city by the same name in Lucania, a region from ancient Italy. Remnants of the Roman Blanda were found during the els Pedrets excavations in the 70s and also at the parish church, at Racó d’en Portes and near Sant Francesc hermitage. The reason for these strongholds to exist were basically for protection of the coastal towns from pirates or from land incursions.

Of course history extends further, a history of landlords, of castles, of Genoese attacks, of Catalan splendor, of invasions, of migrations to America (Havana, Montevideo and Buenos Aires), but I will not digress.

Based upon such rich past, there grew a fishermen town with an intense activity that was also centered in the industry of textile and cork. Shipyards building fishing boats, frigates and brigantines were also part of the city's main industry in previous centuries. As you can guess, much of those early trades are now secondary to tourism although fishing is still around. Worth mentioning is the local fishing fleet that every morning sails the Mediterranean to bring their fresh captures to be auctioned and sold at nine market stalls from where they go straight to meet the touristic demand.

Blanes together with Lloret de Mar, Malgrat de Mar, Tordera and Palafolls municipalities is part of what is known as the Catalan void, a territory between Maresme and La Selva comarques. This area experienced an important demographic and town planning growth during the XX century. Important migrations from the South of Spain took place then, first during the 20s after the opening of the SAFA artificial fiber factory (1923) and later from 1955 to 1970, coinciding with mass tourism boom. This considerable flux of migrants gave Blanes its unique trait, a melting pot of cultures, from where new Catalans were born.

But why is Blanes good for holidays?

A good reason to visit could be the local cuisine. Take for example this incredible paella I had at Celler Sant Antoni  restaurant very conveniently located near the beach and the marina. I'd also recommend laBalma restaurant or the terrace of Es Blanc.

Seafood Paella or Paella Marinera at Celler Sant Antoni in Blanes, Costa Brava, Catalonia, Spain

Another reason may be because accommodation is cheaper than in other Costa Brava towns like Cadaques or Begur for example. Vacation rentals in Blanes might as well be another affordable option for you. From there you could move along the coast easily visiting nearby towns.

Besides eating and sleeping of course, there is always time to walk along carrer Ample to find the beautiful Gothic fountain from 1438, look for Casa Saladrigas by a disciple of Gaudi, visit Marimurtra, one of the most beautiful botanical gardens in the Mediterranean, organize a wildlife tour to the Tordera delta, dive in Blanes waters, escalate to the 1582 convent on top of the cliffs overlooking the port or the castle of Sant Joan (better to go by car) and last but not least buy vegs and fresh fruit at the daily market at Passeig de Dintre.

There are plenty of other things to do in Blanes, like going hiking along Cami de Ronda till Cala Bona the favorite beach of locals or getting lost in the intense nightlife of the little cousin, Lloret de Mar.

The list might go on endlessly. I hope that after you enjoy your Costa Brava holidays you come up here and share some more hints with our community.


July 12, 2009

La Escala Anchovies: A Genuine Catalan Product vs The Competition

L'Escala Anchovies Displayed on Market Stall [enlarge]

There are plenty of brands selling bottled or canned anchovies. A good anchovy should not be too salty or dry and they are better in plain olive oil although the ones that come salted make better fillets once gutted and cleaned. I am no expert but as a good consumer I can tell by the taste and sometimes by the look. In fact I used to sell anchovies for a small company catering bars. I had to distribute small plastic containers full of fillets. I remember they were sold as L'Escala anchovies (Cat. anxoves). To tell you the truth they were not too genuine. Our anchovies (L'Escala is a fishermen town in Costa Brava), have a great rival: Cantabric anchoas or boquerones. You can tell the difference sometimes by the color or the degree of dryness but mainly by the taste due to curing differences. As it happens with all good brands it is difficult to come across the authentic product. They must carry the original label and preferably some small tag inside the can or bottle. I have had the opportunity to try them both and I can assure you they really mark the difference compared to other anchovies (Palamos anchovies are a great option). Personally I prefer Cantabric anchovies but of course that might be considered as some kind of "treason" since they are not Catalan. I think that food is food and knows no boundaries. Some local-product defenders go crazy for Jabugo ham or Burgos morcilla (Black pudding) and that does not seem to tarnish their unpolluted image. Well, I do like both but I like the Cantabric ones better. The species is the same though: engraulis encrasicolus or European anchovy, the difference lies in the habitat which is more appropriate up north according to experts. I won't talk more about the competition. L'Escala has been engaged in the process of curing anchovies since 1940. It is more home-made, less industrialized, applying salt curing techniques inherited from the Greek (the ruins of Empuries nearby are good proof). Due to the low amount of this fish to the north of Spain, captures have been temporarily banned by the government so Mediterranean anchovies are being more demanded than ever. I don't want to bother you with stats or details. My point today is to show you how the label on the bottle looked so you can spot the good ones, to remind you that these two regions lead the market here and finally to emphasize that the anchovies you can buy in other countries, specially in America are not by any chance all the good they are supposed to be (more recently they can be bought on gourmet stores or online) so when you visit Spain buy yourself some good bottle of anchovies, oil-packed or salt-packed (they are not that expensive!), and don't miss the opportunity to treat yourself with exquisite new flavors. Oh, I almost forgot, help yourself with some pa amb tomaquet, some Manchego, Cabrales or Valdeon blue cheese and a good bottle of Albarino or Rueda wine. An even better idea is to go and visit El Xampanyet, on Carrer Montcada 22, one of the best places in Barcelona to try good anchovies among other tapas. But that is part of a different story...

July 28, 2007

Small Cove at L'Escala, a Town in Costa Brava, Spain

Small Cove at L'Escala, a Town in Costa Brava, Spain [enlarge]

Another picture of L'Escala, a beautiful town in Costa Brava, Catalonia, Spain. The golden rays of the afternoon sun falling on the white buildings and the boats along the improvised beach of this small cove or cala create some sort of painting atmosphere that I was lucky to capture for you. Nice weekend.

July 27, 2007

Belly Flop in Costa Brava, Spain

Belly Flop in Costa Brava, Spain

Jumping off a rock and nose diving into the sea, in this case at L'Escala, Costa Brava, may sound like an easy thing to do but everything changes when it's your turn. This kid is the son of some friends. He urged his father to let him go there and jump as the other kid in the water had done previously. The latter was a "pro", improvising front somersaults and so on, so my friend's son dropped his flip flops into the water first and came up with this funny and risky belly flop which fortunately caused him no harm.

July 16, 2007

Seagull in Costa Brava

Seagull in Costa Brava[enlarge]

This snapshot of a juvenile seagull I took from about 2 meters distance using my 18-70 mm nikkor lens. I approached her little by little, squatting slowly till the nearest rock. Water was still coming out of her beak so I guess she was still digesting her food. There was a gentle breeze and we were both alone on top of the promontory, people down there in the cove basking under the sun. With scrutinizing eyes she followed my every movement but was too clumsy to fly with her full stomach. I had to stand on my feet with a sudden gesture to make the beautiful bird soar over summer air. Here is the same seagull against the darker background of brown algae accumulated along the rocky shore in Costa Brava.

July 15, 2007

Blue Cliff Wildflowers in Costa Brava, Spain

Blue Cliff Wildflowers in Costa Brava, Spain [enlarge]

Totally offtopic and out of place, I know, but these blue wildflowers that I spotted on a cliff in Costa Brava are beautiful and beauty always has accomodation in this photoblog. I don't know the name of the plant so finding out the name is your assignment for tomorrow. I like the contrast of the blue petals against the sepia tones of the clay color background of the soil.
*Due to requests and after the kind cooperation of smb who told me these were thistles I found more information in wikipedia with a very similar image that indicates these can be especifically Echinops commonly known as globe thistles. I also have to thank Kate for the advice.

July 14, 2007

Secret Cove in L'Escala, Costa Brava, Spain

Secret Cove in L'Escala, Costa Brava, Spain

Walking along the path on one of the promontories in L'Escala beach you have the chance to explore many coves or calas that vary in size. Some are wider and full of people, some are more private and a few are so small that are empty. That's the moment when you have the chance to see nature in a wilder state. I couldn't help thinking of secret adventures, pirates or castaways when I came across this beautiful spot.

July 13, 2007

Snorkeling in L'Escala, Costa Brava

Snorkeling in L'Escala, Costa Brava

The picture: A father and his son snorkeling in the crystal clear waters of L'Escala a small town in Costa Brava about 150 kms away from Barcelona and 70 from the French border. It's holidays time so I will be using some images that may not be located in Barcelona or just the outskirts. Here is some information about Costa Brava and L'Escala which is famous for its exquisite anchovies.
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