Barcelona Photoblog: Search results for Traditions
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Showing posts sorted by relevance for query Traditions. Sort by date Show all posts

August 18, 2023

Festes de Gràcia: A Celebration of Community and Catalan Culture

New-York-Rats-Lunch-atop-a-Skyscraper-Carrer-Verdi-del-Mig-Festes-de-Gracia-2023

The Festes de Gràcia, also known as the Festa Major de Gràcia, is the largest festival held each year in the charming neighborhood of Gràcia in Barcelona. Taking place for a week every August, this lively celebration brings together residents young and old through colorful street decorations, traditional Catalan dancing and music, delicious local cuisine, and a strong sense of community.

Origins and History

The Festes de Gracia is a popular neighborhood festival in Barcelona that traces its origins back to 1817. It began as a religious procession on August 15th to return an image of the Virgin Mary to a local convent after it had been hidden during the Peninsular War and in honor to the Feast of the Assumption of Mary. At the time, Gràcia was still its own independent town on the outskirts of Barcelona. After Gràcia was annexed into Barcelona in 1897 and over the next few decades, the festival became more focused on celebrating Catalan culture and community. It evolved into a week-long festival celebrated annually in August, with decorated streets, music, dance, theater, parades and more. By the early 20th century over 100 streets were decorated by local commissions. In 1935 attempts were made to organize the festival under one entity, but the Spanish Civil War interrupted this effort until 1956 when the Federation of Streets was formed to unite and organize the various celebrations. During the Franco dictatorship, when public use of the Catalan language and traditions was banned, the festival became an act of cultural resistance. Neighbors decorated streets with pro-independence symbols and sang banned Catalan songs. After dictatorship the festival flourished as an expression of Catalan culture and in 1997 was named a Traditional Festival of National Interest by the Catalan government. In 2009 the Federation became the Foundation of Festes de Gracia, focused on promoting the festival and Gracia culture. The Festes continues today as one of Barcelona's most popular events, bringing together neighbors to decorate streets and celebrate local heritage.

The Streets Come Alive

The most iconic part of Festes de Gràcia is the elaborate decorative displays along major streets and plazas. Local resident associations each select a theme and spend months preparing their street decorations, which are handmade from recycled materials. Past themes have ranged from under the sea to fairy tales to carnivals.

As you stroll through the decorated streets, you’ll feel fully immersed in these creative worlds. On Carrer de l’Or, you might believe you’re deep below the ocean thanks to paper fish dangling overhead. Wander down Carrer de Verdi, and you’ll think you’ve stepped into your favorite storybook or movie scene. It’s an incredible, ever-changing spectacle.

Some standout street decorations over the years include:

  • 2017's Skiing station at Travessia de Sant Antoni was the best street contest winner with an 'icy' and elaborate stage
  • In 2018, a rural farm full of animals gave the first prize to carrer Llibertat
  • Carrer del Progrés, representing the magic world of Harry Potter, won the award to best decorated street in Festa Major de Gràcia 2019.
  • 'El bosc dels llibres' or the Forest of Books, a magic place with a big mushroom as in a fairy tale gave carrer de la Santa Creu the first prize.
  • 2021, due to the pandemic, became a special year in which all streets were declared winners and congratulated on their efforts.
  • In 2022, carrer Verdi was the winner thanks to their inspiration in the famous Don Quixote by Cervantes
  • 2023 - Carrer Progrés has won the competition for decorated streets of the main festival in the Gràcia neighborhood of Barcelona with a decoration inspired by the animated film "A Bug's Life, a miniature adventure" and named Formigres. The main characters are a group of giant ants that live in an anthill and are surprised by a plague of locusts that want to take their grain harvest.

The creativity and handcrafted details are astounding. As an attendee, you’ll feel fully transported wandering these merry miniature worlds. It’s an immersive experience found only during Festes de Gràcia.

Music, Dancing, and Traditions

Festes de Gràcia incorporates beloved Catalan traditions and performing arts. You’ll hear the sounds of the gralla, a traditional Catalan double reed instrument, accompanied by tabal drummers parading through the streets. Revelers form circles to dance the sardana, Catalonia’s national dance, accompanied by a cobbla band.

Human tower building, or castells, also play a central role. Teams compete to construct the highest and most complex human towers, with levels of four to ten people topped by a young child. It’s an impressive feat that requires coordination, balance, courage, and community support. You’ll spot gegants, large papier-mâché figures often depicting historic or folkloric characters, dancing and winding through the crowds.

There are also correfocs, or “fire runs” - parades of people dressed as devils who spin fire batons and set off firecrackers. The drums and fireworks make for an exciting and raucous spectacle, but keep your distance to avoid getting burned!

Some of the cultural activities that have delighted attendees include:

  • Nightly sardana dancing in Plaça de la Vila where all ages join hands and dance in circles.
  • Gegants representing Count Arnau and the legendary St. George parading down Carrer de Verdi.
  • A 25-foot dragon puppet weaving through the streets with glowing eyes and smoke billowing from its nostrils.
  • Children forming mini castells of just 3 tiers, encouraged by their community.
  • The correfoc finale lighting up Plaça del Sol with bursts of fire and sparklers.

The reverence for tradition fills the streets alongside playful revelry during Festes de Gràcia.

Bringing the Community Together

While Festes de Gràcia has grown into a major tourist attraction, its community focus remains.  Thousands of residents volunteer their time to put up decorations, run activities, and keep the celebration running smoothly helped by the Festa Major de Gràcia Foundation which is a non-profit organization that was born in 2009, heir to the tradition of the old Federació Festa Major de Gràcia. As the organization's statutes state, the Festa Major de Gràcia Foundation "has as its object the defense, promotion and dissemination of Catalan popular culture in its broadest sense, and in particular, the defense, promotion and dissemination of Festa Major de Gràcia, in all its aspects, recreational, cultural, sporting and neighborhood, with special protection for those lining the streets, squares and other spaces with similar characteristics. It also aims to research, archive and disseminate the historical documentation of traditional festivals in the old Villa and current district of Gràcia in the city of Barcelona".

For locals, the week of Festes de Gràcia provides a chance to showcase their community pride and talents. Neighbors spend time together decorating their streets in the months leading up to the festival. Friends and families attend concerts, enjoy local dishes from pop-up food stalls, and let loose dancing in the streets. Children grow up attending year after year, developing fond lifelong memories.

The festival ultimately strengthens social bonds and perpetuates traditions in one of Barcelona’s most tight-knit neighborhoods. Even if you’re just visiting Barcelona, you’ll easily feel the solidarity and spirit during Festes de Gràcia.

In terms of community-building, some highlights include:

  • Multi-generational families working side-by-side to decorate their assigned street over many months.
  • Impromptu lessons teaching visitors sardana dancing steps on the spot.
  • Grillades or barbeques held on decorated streets where the whole neighborhood is invited to eat, drink, and be merry together.
  • Local children excitedly pointing out their street's decorations to visitors and friends.
  • A tangible feeling of connection and belonging that spans generations of Festes de Gràcia participants.

The Persistence of Culture and Community

Festes de Gràcia perpetuate Catalan traditions and neighborhood pride. While its scale has expanded over two centuries, the community-driven spirit remains. Joining in the festivities allows you to fully appreciate Gràcia's singular culture.

When you attend Festes de Gràcia, you aren't just a spectator - you become part of the community celebrating its identity. That combination of stunning artistry and solidarity is what makes this one of Barcelona's most spectacular festivals. Through rocking out to sardanes or getting lost in an enchanting decorated street, you'll unlock Gràcia's vivacious heart.

Tips for Attending

Festes de Gràcia takes places from August 15th-21st each year. The decorated streets are accessible 24 hours a day, but come earlier to avoid the big crowds that pack the narrow streets at night. Wander through during the day to snap photos without people blocking your view, then return at night when the decorations are illuminated.

Schedule your visit on August 19th for the castellers competition or August 21st for the correfoc fire run finale. Check the schedule for concerts, dances, parades, and other special events. Most activities take place right on streets and squares, but some require tickets purchased in advance.

Dress comfortably to walk, dance, and navigate crowds. Wear closed toe shoes in case of stray firecrackers at the correfoc. Pack water and snacks so you can keep celebrating. And be sure to savor some classic Catalan dishes like paella and botifarra sausage sandwiches from the street food vendors.

The Festes de Gràcia offers a one-of-a-kind opportunity to experience Catalan culture, community, and creativity. Join in the festivities to eat, dance, play, and celebrate like a true Barcelonian!

Festes de Gràcia Schedule Highlights

Monday August 14th - The festival kicks off with the opening speech and procession to Plaça de la Vila followed by concerts and castellers performances.

Tuesday August 15th - Includes the traditional Mass, parade, performances by grallers and bastoners, and the debut of the Bull of Gràcia.

Wednesday August 16th - Highlights are the parade and tribute to Saint Roc and the exhibition opening of the visiting gegants.

Thursday August 17th - The ceremony announcing the winners of the best decorated street contest.

Friday August 18th - Agenda has children's activities, a downhill walk, and nighttime castellers performances.

Saturday August 19th - Packed with parades and dances showcasing the guest gegants from Molins de Rei.

Sunday & Monday August 20-21 - Wraps up with drumming, fire performances, parades, and the closing correfoc fire run.

In summary, key events include lively celebrations, the contest ceremony, parades and tributes, cultural performances, concerts, and guest gegants festivities.

A full schedule in pdf or here at Barcelona.cat in Catalan only. Join the festivities to experience Catalan culture, community, and creativity! I think there should be an official translation of the schedule in English considering the amount of visitors to the activities. This is just a hint to whom it may concern.

Tips for Making the Most of Festes de Gràcia

As one of Barcelona's biggest festivals, Festes de Gràcia offers endless opportunities for fun. Here are some insider tips to help you make the most of the experience:

  • Arrive early to beat the crowds if you want to closely see the decorated streets and snap photos. The streets pack with people at night.
  • Consider taking a guided walking tour for context about the history and meaning behind traditions like castellers and sardanes.
  • Pack a picnic dinner or snacks to enjoy on the streets and save money. Beer, wine, water and soft drinks are sold in local shops.
  • Download the festival app or pick up a program to plan which special events, concerts, and activities to attend each day and night.
  • Dress comfortably in layers. August is hot during the day but can be cool at night. Wear closed toe shoes in case of stray fireworks.
  • Practice your Catalan! Learn key phrases like "Bon dia" (Good day), "Gracies" (Thank you), and "Visca Festes de Gràcia!" (Long live the Gràcia Festival!).
  • Connect with locals by complimenting their street decorations or joining in dances. The festival is all about community.
  • Check the schedule of metro and bus services, as some may be rerouted during the festival. Walking and taxis are other good options.

Immerse yourself in the celebrations to create unforgettable Festes de Gràcia memories!

Celebrating Community

At its core, Festes de Gràcia is a celebration of community. In a city as large and diverse as Barcelona, the bonds between neighbors that the festival fosters are invaluable. The collaborative efforts involved in putting up decorations, organizing activities, and volunteering create ties that strengthen Gràcia's social fabric.

While the raucous revelry draws in visitors from across the world, the festes remain committed to Catalan traditions and culture. No matter your background, you'll be welcomed into Gràcia's community spirit during the festivities.

Festes de Gràcia demonstrates the heights that can be achieved when people come together creatively for a common purpose. The awe-inspiring decorations, stirring traditional dances, and shared pride of residents offer inspiration.

As the nights ring out with music and laughter, you'll leave with an appreciation for community, culture, and connection. That is the true magic of Festes de Gràcia, unchanged throughout two hundred years of celebrating what makes this neighborhood great. 

Needless to say that although visitors are more than welcomed, respect for local traditions must prevail. Basically, when in Rome, do as the Romans do. Or better said, don't do unto others...you know the rest. This also applies for more than a local or two.

Summary

  • Festes de Gràcia is an annual week-long festival held in mid-August in the Gràcia neighborhood of Barcelona
  • Originating in 1817 as a religious feast day, it has evolved into a secular celebration of Catalan culture and community
  • The highlights are the spectacular decorated streets designed around creative themes by local resident associations
  • Traditional Catalan elements include sardana dancing, castellers human towers, gegants (giant puppets), and correfocs (fire runs)
  • The festival features live music, parades, children's activities, and abundant food and drink
  • While it draws tourists, the festes are organized by local volunteers to bring the community together
  • The festive atmosphere celebrates Gràcia's unique local identity and perpetuates Catalan traditions
  • Joining in the festivities allows you to connect with Gràcia's welcoming spirit and appreciate Barcelona at its best
  • Festes de Gràcia is a one-of-a-kind expression of creativity, culture, and community that encapsulates the soul of Catalonia
Pied Piper of Hamelin at carrer Verdi del Mig - Festes de Gracia 2023

March 12, 2008

Catalan Traditions: Calçotada. A Close Look

Calçotada-Grilled-Leeks-Catalan-Traditions

Half way between leeks and onions, there is a plant known in Catalonia as calçot which has become part of our most popular traditions, the calçotada:

According to some sources calçots were first cultivated in XIX by a lonely peasant called Xat de Benaiges in Valls, Tarragona.

In this close shot, you can appreciate the white bulbs that soon will turn completely black on the grill.

 Although they can be served on a roof tile, or a common plate, many times you simply pile them up in small amounts and wrap them in newspapers to keep them warm till served. They are quite tasteless, or better said, they taste like onions but without the biting feeling in your tongue. In fact, it is a very soft and delicate flavor that calls for a tasty sauce, in this case, romescu made of ground almonds and hazelnuts, vinegar, olive oil, salt, dry red peppers known as choriceros and paprika.

Don't forget to use a bib to avoid the stains caused by the sauce and keep your fingers away from your clothes. Why so? Well, when you learn about the ritual you'll understand.

  1. First you spread the newspaper bundles on the table and everybody gathers around, usually standing with a bowl of sauce nearby. 
  2. Now it's time to peel one of them. You take the plant by the leaves and pressing upon the tip of the white bulb with the other hand you try to pull away carefully the burnt out external layer. This you learn with practice. It must come out neatly without smashing the content.
  3. Then you leave the peel aside (now the hand used for peeling is a mess) and soak the bulb in the sauce, haul it towards your mouth and take a good bite only on the white part of the plant. The rest you throw away.


After this repeat the process at will. Of course, wine is mandatory in this case. Maybe I have been too descriptive today but I have noticed in the past that calçotada details are too often overlooked. Bon appetite!

October 20, 2012

Portrait: Flamenco Dancer with Headpiece and Earrings, Barcelona

Flamenco dancers in Barcelona


This portrait picture of a dancer wearing colorful earrings and flamenco headpiece is yet another sample of how Spanish culture is preserved by local authorities in neighborhoods around Barcelona in their attempt to reflect our reality, a concoction of different regions, different people living in the same peninsula under a flag some share and others do not, with their peculiarities, their traditions and their folklore. Some inhabitants feel identified with flamenco, some others remain indifferent and the rest rejects everything that has to do with it, basically because of that cliche that relates Spain with just bullfighters and flamenco dancers or in many other cases because they are not Spaniards at all but Catalans. But in spite of all these contradictions that you do not see when you are a tourist and come here for the first time, Catalan traditions coexist with these cultural manifestations of other regions and once the show starts, politics and legitimate or not feelings of belonging to one nation or another, to one region or another on both sides are left aside. When I look at this image I just see a beautiful girl wearing a colorful headpiece, having a wonderful day at the party showing people what she does best, dancing flamenco.

November 23, 2017

Becoming a Pubilla, An Ancestral Tradition in Catalonia

Pubillas


Every year pubilles and hereus from all over Catalonia participate in a contest summoned by organizations that promote traditions of the past in the region. As was described in a previous post in Barcelona Photoblog, a pubilla is the heiress in a family where there is no son. She is the eldest daughter, must be between 16 and 21 years old and inherits the home and the estate. The hereu, is the heir, in those cases when there is a son. Families with pubilles were supposed to receive a contribution from the family of the groom, that unlike dowries, were voluntary. This contribution was called aixovar, from Arabic, assovár.

Being elected as the pubilla or the hereu of their municipality or in a final national contest, the representatives of all Catalonia, is a privilege for these youngsters who feel proud of defending the traditions of their ancestors. They will be honor guests in all minor festivities concerning these matters around Catalonia and will be received by the president of the Catalan parliament. A visit to Montserrat Monastery will be a must in their schedule.

Check also this post about Pubilles and Hereus or this one featuring a dancer in traditional dress.

June 07, 2008

Cherry Festival (Festa de la Cirera), Torrelles de Llobregat, Barcelona

Cherry Festival (Festa de la Cirera), Torrelles de Llobregat, Barcelona [enlarge]

With these cherries I would like to introduce you to the Festa de la Cirera (cherry festival and market) celebrated in Torrella de Llobregat this weekend. This small town from Xth c. is only some kilometers away from Barcelona city. In fact Torrelles is a municipality in the Baix Llobregat comarque on the right bank of Llobregat river (one of the two rivers surrounding Barcelona). I have some more pictures which I'll show you in coming posts. Check Torrelles de Llobregat on Google maps.

The annual cherry festival at Torrelles de Llobregat holds deep historical significance in the Catalan region. Dating back centuries, the tradition was born out of the area's fertile soil and ideal climate for cultivating cherries. Catalan cherry orchards have long been renowned for their exceptional quality and distinctive taste.

Over time, the festival has evolved into a cherished cultural event, serving as a platform to honor the centuries-old cherry-growing heritage. It has become a symbol of community pride, where locals come together to celebrate their agricultural traditions and pay homage to the land that sustains them.

The festival's roots can be traced to the age-old practice of organizing fairs to showcase the region's bountiful harvest. Torrelles de Llobregat, with its picturesque countryside dotted with cherry trees, became the perfect setting to host this annual gathering.

Through the centuries, the festival has witnessed the evolution of cherry cultivation techniques, the introduction of new varieties, and the advancement of cherry-related industries. Today, it stands as a testament to the resilience and passion of Catalan cherry growers who have preserved this cultural heritage through generations.

The annual cherry festival not only offers a delightful gastronomic experience but also serves as a living history book, reminding us of the traditions, skills, and dedication that have shaped Catalonia's renowned cherry industry.

January 12, 2008

Strong Horse at Tres Tombs Parade, Sant Andreu, Barcelona, Spain

Strong Horse at Tres Tombs Parade, Sant Andreu, Barcelona, Spain [enlarge]

I swear I had never seen such strong a horse although I am aware of morphology and breeds. This animal in the equine world would be the equivalent of a pro bodybuilder on growth hormones. Look at those legs, that's not only hair! And that in the background is not a cardboard rock. No, that was a huge stone on top of a sturdy cart. It makes no sense to force the beast to handle such a heavy load for such futile purpose but traditions are traditions and Tres Tombs parade is no less.

November 06, 2006

Catalan Folk Dance Troupe

Catalan Folk Dance Troupe - Click to Enlarge

This is what is called Esbart Dansaire, in English a Catalan Folk Dance Troupe. I photographed them while visiting the annual market fair at Monistrol de Montserrat, and I am not sure if they are local Esbart Monistrol Dansaire or Esbart Rosa d'Abril of Castellterçol (another Catalan town). I apologize for not grabbing the name properly. Anyway, the most important thing here is that you get in touch with Catalan traditions and get to know other folk dance expressions different from Sardanes, which are much more extended. The very first troupe danced as far back as 1902 in Vic, Girona but the traditions they represent were originated long before.

October 13, 2007

Bolivian Dancers, NouBarris Quarter, Barcelona

Bolivian Dancers, NouBarris Quarter, Barcelona

This is a group of Bolivian dancers with their colorful traditional costumes, in Nou Barris quarter, Barcelona. As part of an initiative by a local guild of shops and other small businesses, an integration party was organized in an attempt to show all time neighbors what newcomers' traditions are like thus strengthening the ties among the old and new Catalans. Immigration numbers have been skyrocketing in recent years in Barcelona and the process has been so fast that it takes some time for locals to assimilate different aspects such as behavior, language, cultural activities, food. This process, which is part of globalization and is inevitable, as it is inevitable that humans travel, interact, blend, trade and make a living where they see fit, is an old issue in the rest of Europe, in countries like France, Germany or the United Kingdom and now it is Spain's turn to face it. Young people, specially students have no difficulties with ethnic or social traits but our parents and grandparents are sometimes old fashioned and narrow minded.

November 28, 2017

Catalan Olives and Where to Buy Best Olive Oil in Barcelona

Catalan-Pickled-Olives

Olives and the oil extracted from them are the very essence of Mediterranean countries. They permeate our traditions, our idiosyncrasy and our very existence, since they give us health too. Wild olives were collected by Neolithic peoples as early as the 8th millennium BC. Its trees were grown even before language came to life. Shrub-like "feral" olives still exist in the Middle East and represent the original stock from which all other olives are descended. 

Oil was used to anoint athletes after winning or was applied to the dead. Olive oil purifies and soothes the soul, cleanses the mind. Does that mean that if you use the extra virgin kind, would you be cleaner?. I digress. By the way, virgin or extra virgin, means that you do not use chemicals to produce it, that you get the oil just by pressing the olives. 

Catalan-Pickled-Black-Olives

























In Catalonia, there are many varieties of olives that are cultivated across the region. Among them you have the picual (very common and responsible for 25 % of all oil in the world), the empeltre (black) , the arbequina (smaller, very tasty and one of my favorites). Also cornicabra, blanqueta, farga, manzanilla fina and sevillana just to mention some. 

Before buying olive oil you should know that some of them really make the difference. There is good Andalusian oil, and there is good Catalan oil, and so on. I have bought myself extremely good olive oil in Priego, Cordoba for example and have found good rivals many times in oils produced in Lleida, Catalonia. 

Here is a good article on where to buy excellent olive oil in Barcelona  

At the local markets you can find gourmet stands specialized in Catalan olive oil like this one at Mercat de la Concepció from Les Garrigues, Lleida   where you can buy excellent Arbequina extra virgin olive oil 

But where to buy the olives? I recommend you visit this stand at Mercat de Sant Antoni Olives i Conserves Torres.


Here are some more places to buy olive oil in Barcelona:


Orolíquido: Located at Palla, 8 in the Gothic Quarter, Orolíquido is a charming shop that showcases a wide selection of extra virgin olive oils from top producers. In addition to oils, they also offer natural cosmetic products that contain olive oil as an ingredient. The shop is known for hosting tastings, product presentations, and conferences.


Olives i conserves El Piñol: Situated at La Rambla, 91, El Piñol is a stall within the vibrant Mercat de la Boqueria. Here, you can find an extensive variety of olives, alongside a curated selection of international and gourmet products. It's a great place to explore the rich flavors and options available.


Olives i conserves Merino: Located at Creu Coberta, 93, within the Mercat d'Hostafrancs, Merino is renowned for its wide range of olives, including sweet varieties. Apart from olives, the shop focuses on appetizer specialties, offering an assortment of conserves for vermouth. They also feature a selection of Cavas, wines, and gourmet Italian products.


Vom Fass Barcelona: Vom Fass, situated at Cigne, 14, is a shop that pays homage to olive oil. It has been recognized by the Barcelona City Council for its sustainable model. The shop offers an array of products, including the finest extra virgin olive oils, flavored oils (such as fruit-infused and nut oils), and a diverse selection of vinegars and balsamics.


Oli Sal: Nestled in the Gràcia neighborhood at Travessera de Gràcia, 170, Oli Sal is a specialty shop that shares its name with two daily essentials: olive oil and salt. With a passion for extra virgin olive oil, they offer a range of oils sourced from different geographic regions. Additionally, they provide an assortment of salts and vinegars from various locations.


Olis 1921: Situated at Entença, 124, Olis 1921 is a shop owned by a cooperative that brings together different producers of arbequina olive oil, which is crafted in the Lleida region of Les Garrigues. This shop specializes in extra virgin olive oil, emphasizing the properties and value of this precious ingredient in the Mediterranean diet. They also offer organic options.

January 25, 2008

Carnival Costumes: Bolivian Devil, Barcelona Carnaval 2008

Carnival Costumes: Bolivian Devil, Barcelona Carnaval 2008 [enlarge]

Now that we can easily distinguish the Bolivian flag next to our character we can dare to say that this is a Bolivian costume. Thanks to this clue and jumping to the conclusion that this must be some devil figure it is not difficult to investigate Bolivian carnival and discover that a devil dance or diablada is suppose to inagurate the famous carnaval in Oruro, Bolivia. The story deviates a little from our subject which is Barcelona but I guess many of you would like to learn about colorful costumes and traditions in South America. Please read the whole article about Bolivian Carnaval here. Today I was not pretty satisfied with the image so I asked my wife: What do you think? No need to say she didn't like it either. I had the hunch. But the figure is so hideous, and to make it worse, the fact that it was on top of a passing truck looked so bizarre and out of context, that I thought, hey, why not!!!. What do you think?

September 07, 2008

Visit La Boqueria Market in Barcelona!

Lamps in La Boqueria Market, Barcelona, Spain

Most important cities in the world have markets which they are more or less proud of, not because we as inhabitants are going to earn profit from selling products but due to the fact that major markets are a representation of traditions and cultural legacy handed down from past generations.

What I mean is that we as a community are proud of El Mercat de la Boqueria or Mercat de Sant Antoni or Mercat del Ninot, because part of our history is present in those premises, in the architecture, in the products sold, in the way they are displayed, in the way things are cooked or the advice they give us to prepare a nice dinner the way our grandparents did, in the daily thriving of so many families that have been in this trade for ages.

This is what we are and how we are and is good to see that visitors like it and get to know Barcelona in one of the most ancestral ways of doing it, by the food. Check this video of La Boqueria Market by denniscallan.


Remember you can spot La Boqueria market on my Flickr map!

March 31, 2012

Peeling Calçots, Masia Can Palau, Vilanova del Valles

Peeling calçots at Masia Can Palau

In Catalonia, there is this part of the year when going out to peel calçots for lunch at any of the many masias spread around the country becomes almost a matter of state.

Most well-known places for calçotades are in the southern province of Tarragona, in a region called Valls but around Barcelona it is not strange to find a good spot in an idyllic environment.

The place I will mention today is just an example and of course you are free to choose. It is called Masia Can Palau and it is located in Vilanova del Valles some kilometers away from the city of Barcelona.

The 30 eur menu included Calçots with Romescu sauce, grilled meat (a mixture of chicken, sausage, lamb and rabbit with fries) and dessert. We had two generous rounds of calçots per person. They came wrapped in aluminum foil and were very hot.

But how do you peel Catalan calçots?

You have to grab the calçot by the leaves and with the other hand, press gently on the black roasted skin of the bulb and peel it off. Beware you don't press to hard and pull away the inner part of the calçot. It requires some practice. It should come out clean.

After that you soak the tender and juicy stems of the plant in an exquisite romesco sauce which is made with almond, garlic, red pepper, hazelnut, tomato, olive oil, vinegar, crumbs of fried bread, salt and pepper.

If you want to know how they cook calçots and what they are, check my previous posts: Catalan Traditions - Calçotada: A Close Look and Grilled Leaks...Check the sauce in next post.

December 07, 2011

What Will Cagatio Bring For Christmas?

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El Tio de Nadal or Cagatio (Christmas log, pooping log or shit log) a piece of wood that kids hit on Christmas eve or Christmas day with a stick so it poops presents to the beat of a monotonous song (here is a good example of Caga Tio found on Youtube), is deep rooted in Catalan traditions and strangely blends with imported gift couriers like Santa or the Three Wise Men, and being just a log and all, the point is that it surely is time enduring. It has even evolved from just a simple wooden block to a smiling face wearing a Catalan hat (barretina).

But why am I talking about Christmas presents and Tió so early in December? You should know that our pooping log is to be fed and taken care of in advance (starting Advent for many people or by Immaculate Conception Day on December 8 for some) should you want to have good presents by Christmas (usually it delivers just candies, nougat, sweet stuff till it starts pooping odd things like herring, coal, garlic, onion which are a clear sign for kids to stop asking). Hitting a log and getting gifts back in return is kind of a contradiction, a rather violent thing to teach a child you might say. There are opinions about this. It seems that this is due to the fact that at present, in those houses where there is no fireplace, the beating is just an imitation of the act of poking the fire but I am not sure children are aware of that. Tió, really means, any thick log cut into pieces to feed a fire. And it is meant to be burnt a little for the gifts to start showing.

By now, you have figured out what Caga Tió will bring for Christmas if handled with care, if well fed and protected under its comfortable blanket by the fire. However, I wonder, in these times of global crisis, in this period of domestic chaos, of intestine struggle between right and left, rich and poor, banks and indebted citizens, what a log can poo, other than disenchantment.

September 21, 2017

10 of the Best Modernist Architectural Buildings in Barcelona That Will Conquer Your Heart


By the end of XIX and beginnings of XX century, a new artistic movement spread throughout Europe that broke with the past and gave priority to craftsmanship and nature motifs over the rigid hierarchical structure of academic art.

Such movement was called different names: Art nouveau, Jugendstil, modern style, stile Liberty and Sezessionstil. In Barcelona, it is known as Modernism.

Barcelona's modernisme, as such is its name in Catalan, drank from the industrial revolution, from the well being of a powerful bourgeoisie, of the new great men, that set eyes in progress, and new ways of expression, of renovation.

Modernism was about to be seen everywhere, from a pharmacy to a street lamp, but it really started in the houses of the rich, those that made their fortunes in the flourishing textile industry or in Cuba, just to mention some examples, those that move from inside the city walls to live in the Eixample, that set of perfect squares or islands, part of the housing project by Ildefons Cerda. 

Many artists participated in this ordeal of creativity, but a group of gifted architects took the leading part in giving birth to such magnificent cultural and historical legacy. 

Today I would like to give you a succinct list of their major works of art. By choosing just some of them, I will certainly be unfair with the rest. 

Here are 10 of the best modernist buildings that you must see in Barcelona:

1 - Park Güell by Antoni Gaudi: The Futuristic Garden


Park Guell House
Park Guell
A new century was about to start, the influence of 1888 Universal Exhibition was still present and the city was expanding fast in the wake of Ildefons Cerda's ambitious plan.

Right before 1900, Eusebi Güell, Catalan industrial and politician, who made his fortune in the textile sector, entrusted his friend Gaudi with the design of a housing project that would accommodate well known families in a estate up in the neighboring hills around Barcelona. 

From each of the projected 60 plots, happy owners were going to enjoy a privileged view of the sea and the city in a complex full of religious symbols and in harmony with Catalan traditions.

The ambitious dream never really fructified. In 1914 Count Güell abandoned his project. In 1922, four years after his death, the city town hall buys the property to his heirs and by 1926 it is inaugurated as a beautiful park and garden.

             Lesseps
 

  24, 92  Parc Güell,  116 Olot / Marianao,
  24, 32, H6 CAP Larrard

Read more about Park Güell
 

2 - Palau de la Musica Catalana by Domenech i Montaner,  the Modernista Concert Hall

 

Palau de la Musica
Palau de la Musica
Being second does not mean Palau de la Musica is my second best! In my opinion this is one the most beautiful. In fact, this is only a recommendation of my best ten modernista buildings.

When you approach the Palau (palace), the first thing you notice is that this is too much of an architectural marvel for the streets that surround it and that it is difficult to frame a decent picture due to short distance you have to shoot.

But why did Lluis Domenech i Montaner designed and built this? What was the purpose of a concert hall here?

Well, we have to thank, the board of directors of the Orfeó Català choral society, presided by Joaquim Cabot, a renown jeweler. They bought a small plot of irregular shape at Sant Pere quarter and assigned Montaner with the project. Orfeó Català, founded by Lluís Millet and Amadeu Vives and inspired by the choral works of Catalan composer Josep Anselm Clavé, definitely needed a building after a series of concerts in the 1888 Barcelona Universal Exposition and the growing success of their choir and institution.

The construction lasted only three years!

From 1905 to 1908, and not without difficulties, Montaner, managed to give fantastic solutions to the space and illumination problems inherent to the place.

Did you know that Palau de la Musica's first stone was laid on Sant Jordi's day or that in 1920s, some architects thought of demolishing the building for being too extravagant?

Maybe it was, but if the quest of a new identity by the local bourgeoisie and its explosion of creativity, brought a concert hall like this, then we are very lucky to inherit it and we embrace it in awe.

Visualize a stained glass skylight that weighs a metric ton where you can see angels singing around the sun in the shape of an inverted bell hanging over your head, while you watch your favorite concert performed in a stage full of muses and Wagnerian valkyries.

Look, I would be here depicting for hours what your imagination cannot recreate without watching this beauty yourselves.

Maybe this incredible Palau de la Musica Catalana VR gives you an idea.

Or even better, come to Barcelona and plan your Palau de la Musica visit online or directly at the box office.


               Urquinaona


   V15, V17, 45    Via Laeitana
   39, 42, 55, H16 Plaça Urquinaona.

Read more about Palau de la Musica

3 - Casa Mila or La Pedrera by Antoni Gaudi

 

Casa Mila

The last civil work of Gaudi before completely getting absorbed by his famous cathedral was La Pedrera or Casa Mila, a modernist building that raised a lot of controversy in local newspapers by the time it was finished in 1910.

Pere Mila, who by the way owned La Monumental bull ring, was one of those prosperous businessmen craving for a splendorous house in Passeig de Gracia that represented his social status within the wealthy families of the buoyant Catalan bourgeoisie. He commissioned Antoni Gaudi with the project. By that time, the architect was busy with the restoring works in Casa Batllo. Mila's father and the promoter at the Batllo house, were partners.

Gaudi took too many liberties that displeased Mila and his promoters and although this was meant to be the culmination of his work besides Sagrada Familia, he had to deal with complaints about his expenditures and his way too daring architectural eccentricities.

La Pedrera, catalan word for quarry. was the final popular nickname given to the house inspired in the many blocks of cut stone visible on the façade. A façade whose undulated horizontal lines create the illusion of an animated living organism.



                  Diagonal

Barcelona Bus
  Lines: 7, 22, 24, 39, V15


Read more about Casa Milà

 4 - Casa Batlló

 

Casa Batllo
Josep Batlló, yet another wealthy entrepreneur that wanted to live in the most renown street in L'Eixample de Barcelona and in Ildefons Cerda's plan, bought in 1903 a building that dated from 1877 by architect Emily Sala Cortès, one of Gaudi's teachers at the school of architecture.

By the times Batlló acquired the house, Casa Amatller was way to sumptuous to compete and it happened to be next door, so he put his faith in a very popular artist at that moment, Antoni Gaudi.

Instead of demolishing the rather sober building as suggested by the owner, the architect carried out an extraordinary restoration that was audacious and functional at the same time. The result was brutally attractive and efficient, for generations to admire.


              Passeig de Gracia

Barcelona Bus
  Lines: H10, V15, 7, 22 y 24.
 
         
Barcelona Trains
 Renfe: Passeig de Gracia
 FGC:  Provença 


Read more about Casa Batlló

5 - Casa Amatller

 

Stain Glass Casa Amatller
It is not strange that the house of a chocolatier  like Antoni Amatller i Costa, looks like a chocolate tablet.
This third generation businessman carried on with the traditional manufacturing of the Amatller family founded in 1797, by opening in 1878, a modern brand new chocolate factory with the latest production techniques acquired during his travels in Europe.

The capital amassed  from then on, allowed Mr. Amatller to become an art collector, a prestigious photographer and painter. He was  a visionary that invested in publicity for his products using art nouveau illustrations by the best artists of his times. So well he did that he entered the Passeig de Gracia elite of  proud owners of ostentatious modernista houses.

The house that  we see nowadays is in fact the exquisite refurbishing that Josep Puig i Cadafalch made over an 1875 original building which was rather austere. The famous architect, who inspired most of his followers with this masterpiece, added gothic details to a ridged façade, to this crow-stepped gable with clear Flemish or Nordic architecture influence. 


Casa Amatller inaugurated in 1900 broke with the predominant architectural concepts of Passeig de Gracia and paved the way for new modernist ideas in the years to come. 


The first famous construction of the block was about to start a rivalry of patrons over who was to build the most magnificent house. This fight for commissioning the most opulent casa modernista in one specific block of Passeig de Gracia eventually created L'Illa de la Discòrdia or The Block of Discord.


                Passeig de Gracia

Barcelona Bus
  Lines: H10, V15, 7, 22 y 24.
 
         
Barcelona Trains
 Renfe: Passeig de Gracia
 FGC:  Provença 


Read more about Casa Amatller

6 - Casa Lleo i Morera

 

Casa Lleo i Morera
Declared by the Town Hall, best artistic building of the year in 1905,  Casa Lleo i Morera constitutes an efficient solution by Lluis Domenech i Montaner on the limitations of an irregular estate and an asymmetric façade.

On the corner of Passeig de Gracia and Consell de Cent, you come across one of the most beautiful modernista houses that are part of the Illa de la Discordia or Block of the Discord.

This was also a restoration and a very good one, of course. Domenech i Montaner was one the most popular architects of the moment. Remember that he also built Hospital de Sant Pau, Palau de la Musica Catalana and Casa Fuster among other outstanding works.

In this case, the original building came to the hands of their owners by inheritance. Francesca Morera i Ortiz got it from an uncle that had become rich in America. The presence of nearby Casa Amatller pushed Mrs. Morera to decide that she was not second to none, so in the wake of many other rich members of Catalan bourgeoisie, she summoned Montaner and put him in charge of the renovation.

It happened that the illustrious lady did not survive the house inauguration by one year.

Do not miss this virtual tour of Casa Lleo i Morera!

Only the first floor is open to the public by guided tour only.



                 Passeig de Gracia

Barcelona Bus
  Lines: H10, V15, 7, 22 y 24.
 
         
Barcelona Trains
 Renfe: Passeig de Gracia
 FGC:  Provença 


Read more about Casa Lleó i Morera

7 - Palau del Baro de Quadras

 

Palau Baro de Quadras
The Palau (palace) del Baro de Quadras is yet another good sample of those grandiloquent dreams of the bourgeoisie and the nobility at the beginnings of the XX century.

The aftermath of the industrial revolution, the 1888 Universal Exhibition in Barcelona, the accruing of wealth coming from the textile industry or the fortunes made in Cuba by the indianos, (Spanish emigrants in America) created a breeding ground for this eagerness to excel by spending every dime in artistic expression and where better than your own house to start with. In 1906, Manuel Quadras i Prim, fulfilled such a dream.

The Baron, son of a rich textile businessman, commissioned Josep Puig i Cadafalch to restore a house in Diagonal avenue, one of the main streets conceived by the urban planner Ildefons Cerdà. The estate had been inherited from his father and needed to be refurbished in accordance with the new noble status of his owner.

Cadafalch, who had worked for Quadras in the past, knew well what he had to do to express the desires of his patron. As it happened that there were two façades, one facing Diagonal and the other carrer Roselló, and bearing in mind that the three upper levels were meant to be apartments for rent, the architect designed an opulent entrance of neo-plateresque style for the proprietor in the avenue and a back sober entrance on the other side for the tenants.

The balcony, featuring busts of medieval and Renaissance figures, floral adornments and heraldic symbols and the neo gothic staircase shown in the picture above are a must see.

More information here: Palau Baro de Quadras


                  Diagonal

Barcelona Bus
  Lines: 6, 33, 34, 39, H8, V17


Read more about Palacio del Baro de Quadras

8 - Casa Comalat 

 

Casa Comalat
Unfortunately this precious gem of modernisme is not open to the public but that does not mean it is not worth noting down in your list of must see places for your art nouveau route in Barcelona.

Featuring also two completely different façades, Casa Comalat is beautiful enough to satisfy your curiosity and admiration for architecture.

Although the main side is on 442 Diagonal, it is the 316 Còrsega street façade, shown here in the picture that draws more attention. 

Built between 1906 and 1911 the house is named after his owner Mr. Comalat, a money lender that assigned the project to architect Salvador Valeri i Pupurull. Resources were not a problem so only the best were hired to participate in the construction. Lluis Bru i Salelles was the artisan in charge of the interior decoration and the polychrome ceramic work on the undulated balconies and the roof parapet. The stain glass windows came from the hands of renowned Rigalt i Granell company.


The projecting bay is made of several party walls created with a system of narrow roller-shuttered windows. This is one of the differentiating traits of Casa Comalat with the rest of casas modernistas, the shutters. Also the excess of ornaments makes it unique, as the building is part of late modernisme in Barcelona.

It is a pity that the interior of Casa Comalat is not open to the public.



                  Diagonal

Barcelona Bus
  Lines: 6, 33, 34, H8, V17


Read more about Casa Comalat

9 - Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau

 

Hospital de Sant Pau
The biggest modernist complex on earth, declared world heritage by UNESCO in 1997, Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau was not always where it is now.

It all started with an obsolete gothic building in XV and a generous 'handout' from a Catalan living in Paris, an prosperous banker with investments in key industrial sectors. This generous savior was called, Pau Gil i Serra. 

Mr. Gil died in 1892, but his will had been written some years before. It stated that a hospital honoring Sant Pau (St. Paul) should be built in Barcelona using part of his capital but not in any odd place. There was only one condition, it had to be constructed in a place with maximum health conditions. Obviously the gothic building in old Raval quarter did not meet this requirement, so the Hospital accepted to leave the unhealthy premises, took the money from the inheritance and donated land of their own for the occasion.

The project was assigned to the acclaimed architect Lluis Domenech i Montaner who set to design 48 pavilions of which only 27 were finally built, all connected by underground corridors. Seen from above, the modernista compound resembles a giant cross, inclined 45 degrees with respect to the rest of buildings in the Eixample district. 


By the way, the recinte modernista of Sant Pau  is very near Sagrada Familia, so in my modest opinion, it would be better to combine them both instead of visiting Sagrada Familia and Park Güell the same day, as it seems to be the general trend with tourists lately. 



                Sant Pau

Barcelona Bus
 Lines:  Carrer Sant Quintí: 192
             Carrer Sant Antoni Maria Claret: H8, 19, 20, 45, 47, 50, 51, 117, N1, N4
             Carrer Cartagena: 192, N0

Read more about Hospital de Sant Pau

10 - La Sagrada Familia Cathedral by Antoni Gaudi

 

Sagrada Familia
And last but in no way least, the cherry on top, the cream of the crop, the opus magnum of Modernism by the master of masters, architect Antoni Gaudi.

This everlasting but never ending project  that Gaudi could not finish as he died accidentally at the age of 73, three days after being hit by a tram, occupied 43 years of his lifetime. Time enough to leave behind a well defined plan to continue in his footsteps and to find the eternal light at the end of his long visionary tunnel. In fact, the basilica is in the final stages of construction and it is estimated to be ready by year 2030.

It all started back in 1872, when Josep Maria Bocabella, a very religious man and librarian, had returned from his trip in Italy and decided that the city needed to devote a temple to La Sagrada Familia. After buying some property in L'Eixample of Cerda, he commissioned architect Francisco de Paula del Villar to work on his idea. There were discrepancies between Villar and Martorell, who was Bocabella's advisor. The result: a young Gaudi is given the new assignment which he turned into the temple of perfection.

The result of his genius, the legacy of a one and only man was about to become a daunting jewel of architecture that should undoubtedly be considered part of the new wonders of the modern world. 


                Sagrada Familia

Barcelona Bus
  Lines:  Mallorca / Marina: 19, 33, 34, 50, 51, H10


Read more about La Sagrada Familia


The purpose of this post is to open your eyes and your heart to the beauty of an art movement called modernisme that took  many liberties  to run away from a rigid past and taught us that there are no limits to human imagination. It would be great if you took a minute to share it. Thanks!
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