Love in Barcelona and Beyond

Couple kissing each other - Las Ramblas - Barcelona

Love is all around us, it is always there, it will never ask you when to come, it is in the air, on those leaves, on the bark of that tree, in the way the time freezes around this warm embrace. This is such a universal scene, it has been so many times portrayed!!!

When I take a picture of a couple sometimes I feel I am violating something sacred so I tried to conceal the faces. Who they are, is irrelevant. It should be. Love can happen to you, can happen to me. The way I see it, is that this is something so deep that I could write a book about it. I would only say, that for me, love is like washing away the rest of the scene. I am sure that Las Ramblas, this extremely busy street, disappeared for an instant around this kiss, passersby became but silent blurry ghosts, signs got distorted, and a sudden secret swirl of energy started to form around the lovers, that mysterious matter, that causes numbness inside our brains, that gives you a lump in your throat, pushes your stomach against your bones, right beneath your diaphragm, dilates your pupils, accelerates your pulse, sends shivers down your spine, opens up your pores, boosts up your senses up to the point you fall into a trance and you are no longer there, but somewhere inside the soul, not just your soul, but some other person's soul and that my friends, is the real magic of it all, to walk into somebody's beautiful soul, unexplored, full of treasures, full of light, richer than yours sometimes, because yours you apparently know already, which of course, is not completely true. But you don't want yours, you want to walk along this new path, to enhance your experience, expand your senses to the world beyond and the only tool you've got is something right behind your eyes connected to something in your chest that is capable of seeing without using your vision and transforming reality into whatever whimsical image you could think of. To be more precise, you are not precisely thinking. I am sure this comes from a place inside our hearts.

Lovers' hearts are prepared to catch the weakest universal signals and fine tune them into a perfect symphony without having super powers, without knowing about music or instruments, they are simply connected to the source and the source is not outside, it comes from within.

Let's respect the peace of this moment, this private kiss, let's envy in a way, the ones who are able to know love, real love and wish we can find it some day, in this life or in any other life.

Have you ever felt this way? How would you describe love?

The Artist and its Work, Las Ramblas, Barcelona

Here is a real artist contemplating his drawing at one of those spots specially assigned to painters and caricaturists along Las Ramblas, Barcelona. Nothing like the pleasure of staring at your work with the satisfaction of having created something you feel proud of. It happens with almost everything in life, and certainly, we are here because we like to create stuff and have goals that make us find a place as individuals in society. Of course you create for yourself but you need some recognition for your creation to be valuable. Being an artist many times depends on just that, good reviews. Although, then, there's the real artist, the one with the gift, like, Mozart for example, people that are great simply because they are, and the only thing you can do about it is bow and worship in awe. In other words, there are gifted souls and the rest of mortals. Within the latter, you've got, individuals that try real hard, and come out with a remarkable result and then there is the mediocre kind, divided into those who accept they are and those who regard themselves as artists. Do what you do, your work is of course respectable because is yours but don't expect everybody to like it. But beware of critics that may be part of that mediocre bunch and their snobbish ways, because sometimes genuine art is judged by shortsighted minds and they are really harmful.

Ramblas Lady Statue Lost in Her Own Thoughts

Walking the Tightrope of Las Ramblas

If you have ever been to Barcelona, you know that Las Ramblas is not just a street. It is a living, breathing beast. It is a kilometer of pure chaos that stretches from the city center down to the sea, packed tight with tourists, flower stalls, bird sellers (once upon a time), and the constant hum of a thousand conversations happening at once. It is the sort of place where you have to watch your wallet, watch your step, and watch the world go by all at the same time.

I have walked this pavement more times than I can count. Usually, I am just trying to get from point A to point B without bumping into someone dragging a suitcase. But every now and then, I stop. I stop because amidst all that movement—the rush of the locals and the wandering of the visitors—there are these islands of total stillness. The living statues.

You have seen them. They paint themselves in silver or gold, or they dress up like cowboys, dragons, or historical figures. They stand perfectly still, defying the human urge to itch or blink, just waiting for the sound of a coin hitting their hat so they can come to life for a few seconds. It is a fun little game. We pay a euro, they move, we smile, and we keep walking.

But recently, I realized that the "show" is not actually the most interesting part.

The Mystery of the Lady in Red

I took this photo on a recent walk down the boulevard. It stopped me in my tracks, not because of what she was doing, but because of what she wasn't doing. She wasn't trying to catch my eye. She wasn't posing. She was just... being.

She was sitting there, engulfed in this massive, incredible dress. The texture of it looked like crushed velvet or maybe dyed paper, layered in deep reds and burnt oranges, like a volcano or a dying fire. It is a stunning piece of costume design.

I do not know whether she impersonates a flamenco dancer or an opera singer. Maybe she is supposed to be a character from a specific play I don't know, or maybe she is just a generic symbol of "Spanish Passion" invented to look good in tourists' vacation photos. Honestly, it doesn't really matter who she is supposed to be.

As I said in a previous post, human statues in Las Ramblas are much more interesting when they are offstage, when you see the person behind the character. That is exactly what I saw here. The curtain was down, even though she was sitting right in the middle of the street.

The Moment the Mask Slips

There is something really vulnerable about catching a performer on their break. When they are "on," they are untouchable. They are protected by their paint and their props. They are staring right through you with a practiced, intense gaze. But when they take five minutes to rest? That armor falls off.

In this shot, you can see the contrast so clearly. Look at the background. You have the yellow construction poles—ugly, bright, and utilitarian. You have a guy in white work clothes walking past, and a woman in jeans on her phone, rushing somewhere. That is the real world. It is grey, busy, and undistinguished.

Then you have her. A splash of fantasy sitting right on the dirty pavement. But look at her posture. She is slumped over a little bit. She is holding a fan, but she isn't using it to flirt or pose; she is just holding it because her hands need somewhere to go. She is looking down, completely lost in her own thoughts.

The Hardest Performance of All

I stood there for a moment and just wondered what she was thinking about. Was she counting how much money she had made so far? Was she thinking about how much her feet hurt? Maybe she was making a mental grocery list for later, or worrying about rent, or just wishing the construction noise behind her would stop for five minutes.

It hit me then. Lost in her own thoughts, this lady is in some way acting. She is in the middle of yet another performance, the most difficult, the most demanding: trying to make a living in the real world.

We tend to romanticize street artists. We think it is a bohemian, free life. But looking at her, I saw the grind. I saw the work. It is not just about standing still; it is about the mental stamina it takes to put on a costume, paint your face, go out into the heat or the cold, and rely on the kindness of strangers to pay your bills. That is a heavy weight to carry, heavier than that dress she is wearing.

Reflections on the Sidewalk

I think that is why I love this photo. If she were looking at the camera and smiling, it would just be a postcard. It would be a souvenir. But because she is looking away, it becomes a story.

It reminds me that everyone we walk past on Las Ramblas—or any street in any city—is putting on a show of some kind. We all have our costumes. Maybe you wear a suit and tie to the office; maybe you wear a uniform; maybe you put on a "customer service voice" when you answer the phone. We all freeze up and play our parts when people are watching.

But we all have those moments, like this lady, where we just need to sit down and stare at the ground for a second. We have to drop the act and just deal with the reality of being tired, or stressed, or bored.

So, the next time you are walking down Las Ramblas and you see one of these statues, go ahead and drop a coin in the hat. They earned it. But take a second to look for the person underneath the paint, too. The interesting stuff isn't the robot dance or the frozen bow. The interesting stuff is the human being who is working hard to make a little bit of magic in a loud, busy, messy world.

Marilyn Monroe Human Statue: The Backstage

Marilyn's Real Stage: The Curb

If human statues in Barcelona could pick their spots at will, I am pretty sure this guy impersonating Marilyn Monroe would have chosen the famous air vents up on the Passeig de Gràcia sidewalk. It would be the perfect fit. But instead of that iconic scene, he has to compete down here with a bunch of other statues in the thick of Las Ramblas.

The competition lately is fierce. You have the impressive rivals that are really hard to beat, and then you have many others that are, frankly, a bit ridiculous. There are way too many of them recently. But as I always say, my friends, crisis sharpens your survival skills, and the boat is already full of survivors.

Order in the Chaos: New Rules Coming

It sounds like the free-for-all is about to end. Local authorities have plans to limit the number of statues starting January next year. We are talking about a cap of just 30 performers, selected by the quality of their act. They will be working in two shifts—15 in the morning and 15 in the afternoon—and they will be confined to a restricted area exactly between the Pla de la Boqueria and the Arc del Teatre square.

Artists will actually have to send in a CV to get a spot! Also, imitations of animals or characters carrying weapons will be banned. Let's see how it all ends, as some attempts at regulation were made in the past with zero success.

The Intimacy of the Backstage

Hey, I almost forgot about Marilyn here. You know what? I actually prefer capturing these moments over the performance itself. This is the "backstage" session, right out in the open. It is when living statues are in the intimacy of their preparation, or taking a breather.

In this shot, you don't see the glamour; you see the grind. He is crouching down by his equipment box, maybe fixing his lipstick or grabbing a quick bite, completely lost in his own thoughts. He might be wondering what the heck he is doing standing on a pedestal all day without twitching a muscle.

It is a reminder of the human element. As I always say, please help the artist behind the statue. Don't pretend they are just part of the street furniture or Las Ramblas decoration. They are working hard.

Ramblas Angel

The Golden Angel Returns in Full Color

If you have been hanging around the blog for a while, this golden figure might look familiar. I actually featured this specific performer quite some time ago in a post I called Angel or Devil, a popular living statue in Las Ramblas.

Back in that post, I was really focused on zooming in on the intricate details of her face paint. But looking back, I realized I owed you a proper full-size shot to really show off the scale of those massive majestic wings. She is seriously impressive to see in person on the street.

Getting Experimental with the Edit

As you can see, I decided to have a little creative fun with the processing on this shot today. The background is a total pop-art explosion. I used a heavy radial blur effect in Photoshop (shout out to good old CS4!) to create that intense sense of motion and dizzying color.

I admit, this style might be a little "too daring" for some tastes, but honestly, sometimes you just have to experiment and have fun doing it. I think it makes the steady, metallic gold of the statue really jump off the screen against the chaos. Have a great week, everyone!

Some Exciting Blog News

On a completely different note to start the week, I wanted to share something cool. Barcelona Photoblog was kindly listed among the "50 Most Amazing Architectural Photography Blogs" by Photography Colleges. It’s a really good guide to check out if you are looking for online photography tuition.

I want to say a big thank you to them for the mention. It also reminded me to share my own Architecture and Sculpture in Barcelona set on Flickr with you all again. It’s a big collection of pictures, many of which you can find buried deep in my blog archives as well, all gathered in one place.

Las Ramblas Devil? Please, Dial 666

Las Ramblas Devil? Please, Dial 666

Satan, Beelzebub, Lucifer, Mephistopheles, the Prince of Darkness... or simply the Devil. There are a thousand names for the eternal antagonist, the "slanderer" (if you want to get technical with the Greek diabolos), or as we call him here, El Diablo.

Most religions have their own definition of this malevolent entity, but one thing is true: there seems to be a general acceptance that evil exists. Some place it in hell, others in a parallel dimension, or maybe inside a black cat. If we want to get materialistic about it, maybe it is just a glitch in our neural connections—a result of a lousy childhood or the fact that we chewed on too many plastic toys when we were toddlers.

The Root of All Evil?

Of course, on a bad day, we might just think the devil is our boss, our mother-in-law, our bank creditor, or maybe even Marilyn Manson. But walking down Las Ramblas, the manifestation is a little more literal.

Judging by the massive, textured horns on this creature and that heavy shoulder armor that looks like it was stolen from an Orc in The Lord of the Rings, I’d say this is a pretty practical example of a downtown demon manifestation. I went with a gritty black and white edit for this shot because I think it brings out the textures of the mask and makes him look even more like an ancient gargoyle.

Careful Who You Call

If you look closely at the background, you can spot the logo of a public telephone booth right behind him. It makes for a perfect, slightly ominous coincidence. So, beware of who is next in line when you use a public phone in Barcelona! You never know if you might accidentally dial 666.

Ramblas Cowboy Wishes You a Happy 2010!

Golden Greetings from Las Ramblas

On behalf of the Ramblas Cowboy—that famous human statue you really can't miss on Barcelona's most renowned street—I want to wish you all a very Happy New Year. Now, he is not technically my acquaintance, I don't know the guy under the paint, but I am sure he can back me up on this greeting. Judging by the warm smile he always seems to wear, even when frozen solid, he must be a great guy.

Chasing the Christmas Lights

I actually woke up today with a specific photo in mind: catching his shimmering golden figure against the backdrop of the city's Christmas lights. The final shot came out a little different than I planned—he’s caught here in a really dynamic, mid-action pose with that golden pistol drawn, rather than standing still—but I think it works even better.

He is practically glowing against those cool blue bokeh lights hanging in the plane trees and the warm blur of the shops behind him. In the end, I am just happy I walked down to Las Ramblas. You could really feel the good mood everyone was sharing as the year comes to a close. It’s a great atmosphere down here right now. All the best to everyone!

Las Ramblas Buggy Rides

It might look kind of anachronic to ride along Las Ramblas of Barcelona on one of those horse-drawn carriages (buggies in this case) something which is very common in cities like Seville for example, I mean it must be difficult to circulate considering there is still a dense traffic in spite of official bans to regulate it. Not that horses look out of place, in fact they were always here when this street was young, a long, long time ago, but aside from the platane trees that adorn the famous promenade the rest seems to go against the pleasant effect the ride's supposed to trigger. I am not saying that they should stop the service, on the contrary, I'd prefer that Las Ramblas got rid of cars and everything looked the way it must have been in the early 20s of last century.

Information about La Rambla buggies:

Departures from the Portal de la Pau at the end of the Ramblas, near Columbus monument

Mon-Sun and holidays: from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5.30 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Length of time of the route: 30 minutes or 1 hour

Information and reservations:
Tel.: 93 421 15 49
Fax: 93 421 88 04

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Dragon and Umbrella at La Rambla, Barcelona

I brought you today a new picture I took of a subject included here in a previous post: the Dragon and Umbrella figures presiding over Las Ramblas at the top floor of an old umbrella store. Details can be read there so I just want to support that with an improved image. Please check: Casa Bruno Quadros: Modernisme or Eclectic Whim and Las Ramblas: Dragon and Umbrella Photo.

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Angel or Devil, A Popular Living Statue in Las Ramblas

Angel or Devil? The Golden Enigma of Las Ramblas

If you walk down Las Ramblas often enough, you start to recognize the regulars. And this one is by far one of the most attractive—and popular—living statues on the entire street. It is a golden angel, showing off a set of impressive wings that you can spot from quite a distance away.

From afar, the figure seems purely majestic. But standing right in front of him (or her?), the vibe gets a little more complicated. All in all, the angel seems sweet and gentle, offering a frozen welcome to the tourists passing by.

A Closer Look at the Texture

However, if you take a close look at this portrait, you might not be so sure about which master this angel works for: God or the Devil. There is something about that texture—the way the gold paint cracks like dry earth or ancient bark—that gives the statue a wild, almost pagan look. The heavy "dreadlocks" framing the face add to that primal feeling.

And then there is the smile. It’s bright, sure, but look at the eyes. There is a spark there that could be benevolence, or it could be mischief. Click on the image to view the big format and tell me: what do you see? Is this a guardian of good or something a little more sinister? Maybe it represents some mythological being I am not aware of, but it definitely leaves you wondering.

Human Statues: Make-Up Time

The Open-Air Dressing Room of Las Ramblas

When you are trapped in the living stream of Las Ramblas, being shoved along from one end to the other by the crowd, it is easy to forget the obvious: these human statues are not part of the urban furniture. They aren't a permanent exhibition like the streetlamps or the paving stones.

No one comes and unloads them from a truck to gently place them on their improvised pedestals early in the morning. They are anonymous Barcelona citizens, made of flesh and bone. They are permanent residents or temporary visitors who rely on this unstable, tedious, and physically demanding activity to make a living.

From Citizen to Character

I love this shot because it shows the "before." They have their assigned areas, their timetables, and their official permits, but the transformation happens right here on the ground. To attain that wonderful final look we are all familiar with, they sometimes need more than an hour to be ready.

It is not strange to see them arrive partly dressed to save time, sitting cross-legged on the cold stones. Here, her "vanity table" is just a small stepladder and the pavement. You can see the focus as she applies that elaborate pink and black eye makeup with a tiny handheld mirror, ignoring the world walking by. The contrast between the fantasy of the costume and the mundane reality of the plastic water bottle and the gym bag really hits home.

The Risks of the Trade

After all that preparation—fitting into impossible costumes and applying layers of paint—it may happen that the weather suddenly plays tricks on them and spoils the performance. Of course, no insurance company will compensate for the cancellation of the show, nor will the City Hall sympathize with their cause.

Las Ramblas certainly wouldn't be that great without the living statues, so any help to pay for such a respectable effort is always more than welcome. Of course, I don't tip them if I capture them before the acting begins, as in this image—this is just a candid moment. But when they are "on stage," I try not to sneak between tourists to steal a picture. A good smiling face, nicely caught in connivance with the camera after you have expressed your gratitude (and dropped a coin), can really make the difference.

Musing in Las Ramblas de Barcelona

Before I begin I would like to thank a couple of friends for making me muse on my blog and the daily posting affair. They both did in two very different ways which I won't explain here but made me think that daily doesn't mean having to post each and every day of the year but to do it several times a week perhaps. These are their sites: San Francisco Daily Photo by Manuel Guerzoni and Hyde Daily Photo by Gerald England. I am glad they made me came out of my stubborn obsession and in way released me from this sacrifice. I think this will mean better posts as I will have more energy and less ambiguity as to the date on my posts considering I am one month behind schedule and the blog is talking about January 2009 as of now. So I stood like this man leaning on the railing of some parking lot in Las Ramblas and began musing for a while about the future. In fact it only took me an hour to change my mind. Thanks again my friends.

Toy Souvenirs, Las Ramblas, Barcelona

Well, the new domain and the updating of backlinks via emails to webmasters is keeping me busy lately. All the old internal links have been automatically reconfigured and the ones on the search engines are leading to www.barcelonaphotoblog.com. It has been hard but I feel much better now. Any help passing on the change of address message is deeply appreciated. Oh yeah, today's image, I almost forgot:

It is a small toy, a souvenir you can buy at stalls in Las Ramblas. I published a very similar image in the past. Here is the old post: Wooden Toys at Las Ramblas Stall

Human Statue Lady at Las Ramblas de Barcelona

A Moment of Fragile Beauty

This is yet another human statue at Las Ramblas, but she feels different from the rest. While some performers go for shock value or comedy, she projects a sense of beautiful, fragile delicacy. She stood there on this incredibly populated street, completely still, looking almost like a porcelain doll amidst the stampede of tourists.

Painted in Light and Glitter

I was immediately attracted by the details of her face. The makeup is stunning—those swirling green glitter patterns against the purple eyeshadow and the bold teal lips really pop. But it’s not just the paint; it’s the atmosphere.

The background is a soft, blurred wash of cyan and purple light coming from the nearby store signs, and it frames her profile perfectly. She looks "hieratic"—like a sacred statue from an ancient temple—dignified and lost in her own world. Don't forget to check the labels below if you want to see more living statues, and definitely click the image to view the big format so you can appreciate the texture of the glitter.

Jogging in La Rambla, Barcelona

Jogging in Las Ramblas de Barcelona is so difficult that instead of that we should call it dribbling or slalom. In spite of that, stubborn athletes you can find all year long in any part of the world. I don't know, you are in the middle of a safari in Africa and suddenly you see a jogger waving at you right behind the lions.

Joggers do take it very seriously sometimes. An old man may be mugged in a dark suburban street while a person in a hooded sweater passes by swiftly as a ghost in a Japanese horror movie, unaware of the crime and lost in that podcast on the benefits of sports, so lost that may even end up in the most transited and smoggy street of the city.

In our case here, there was some kind of cosmic impasse and for some milliseconds there was no one near the jogger, probably due to the use of a special force field or protective shield invisible to the human eye. Come to think of it, she was just a lucky tourist on the wrong street.

Las Ramblas: The Most Frequented Street in Barcelona

Las Ramblas, a small scale Catalan version of the Champs Elysées, is perhaps Barcelona's most frequented street and not precisely by the locals. Hordes of tourists wander up and down around the clock under the plataneros (hybrid plane trees) of the famous walk. This is how it looked on a Saturday morning last month. Recently, authorities met the local guild of stall owners to listen to their complaints and they have started cleaning Las Ramblas from pickpockets, trileros (a sort of shell game swindlers) and other petty criminals. In return the stalls will be replaced more than a meter backwards so they are not another obstacle in the way. Workers alleged that the living statues are also responsible for jamming the area as each of them gathers their own circle of admirers. Besides, there is the ever growing number of visitors. Did you know that according to a recent report by Saffron Brand Consultants, Barcelona is the third most attractive city for tourism, business and foreign investment after Paris and London from a list of 72 European cities. The data was obtained after interviewing 2000 people and considering different factors such as location, culture, history, food, business potential and residents attitude towards visitors.

Now for you to rejoice here are some breathtaking shots: The Earth From Above via The Boston Globe

Bike Rack on Las Ramblas de Barcelona

About time I captured one of those images of mutilated bikes tied up somewhere for no apparent reason. Now that I finally made it (hooray!) I will try to forget it right away. Let's issue a formal complaint first: please, stop urinating on Las Ramblas! It smells and what's worse, it spoils my pictures. Yes, that blurry thing behind the bicycle fossil is nothing but a conspicuous stain left by humanoids on a booze spree. "Hey dude, enough moaning. Step out of the way. Can't you see that's my bike! And stop takin' pictures of my rack or I will get very pissed off".

Street Artists: Las Ramblas Clown, Barcelona

Among dozens of human statues in Las Ramblas de Barcelona you may now and then find other "minor", less sophisticated and striking ways of artistry equally respectable and venerable as is the case of the Clown. See this artist in context using my geotagged Barcelona photos set on Flickr.

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Japanese Tourists in Canaletas: Wrong Directions?

Last winter these Japanese tourists seemed to be lost and were desperately checking a map. I hope they were not looking for Canaletas fountain, the illustrious symbol of Barcelona Football Club, the place where we go to celebrate special victories (hmm definitely not this year), only because they got it right behind. Pushing the bad joke way too far I would dare to say some Real Madrid fan gave them the wrong directions on purpose. No, no, forget about this cheesy gag and concentrate on the place, Las Ramblas de Barcelona, the beautiful promenade and its people always coming and going, people from all over the world, having the hell of a great time in the city, both repetitive visitors and newcomers alike.

People Sitting on Ramblas Chairs

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