The Open-Air Dressing Room of Las Ramblas
When you are trapped in the living stream of Las Ramblas, being shoved along from one end to the other by the crowd, it is easy to forget the obvious: these human statues are not part of the urban furniture. They aren't a permanent exhibition like the streetlamps or the paving stones.
No one comes and unloads them from a truck to gently place them on their improvised pedestals early in the morning. They are anonymous Barcelona citizens, made of flesh and bone. They are permanent residents or temporary visitors who rely on this unstable, tedious, and physically demanding activity to make a living.
From Citizen to Character
I love this shot because it shows the "before." They have their assigned areas, their timetables, and their official permits, but the transformation happens right here on the ground. To attain that wonderful final look we are all familiar with, they sometimes need more than an hour to be ready.
It is not strange to see them arrive partly dressed to save time, sitting cross-legged on the cold stones. Here, her "vanity table" is just a small stepladder and the pavement. You can see the focus as she applies that elaborate pink and black eye makeup with a tiny handheld mirror, ignoring the world walking by. The contrast between the fantasy of the costume and the mundane reality of the plastic water bottle and the gym bag really hits home.
The Risks of the Trade
After all that preparation—fitting into impossible costumes and applying layers of paint—it may happen that the weather suddenly plays tricks on them and spoils the performance. Of course, no insurance company will compensate for the cancellation of the show, nor will the City Hall sympathize with their cause.
Las Ramblas certainly wouldn't be that great without the living statues, so any help to pay for such a respectable effort is always more than welcome. Of course, I don't tip them if I capture them before the acting begins, as in this image—this is just a candid moment. But when they are "on stage," I try not to sneak between tourists to steal a picture. A good smiling face, nicely caught in connivance with the camera after you have expressed your gratitude (and dropped a coin), can really make the difference.
