Human Statues: Make-Up Time

The Open-Air Dressing Room of Las Ramblas

When you are trapped in the living stream of Las Ramblas, being shoved along from one end to the other by the crowd, it is easy to forget the obvious: these human statues are not part of the urban furniture. They aren't a permanent exhibition like the streetlamps or the paving stones.

No one comes and unloads them from a truck to gently place them on their improvised pedestals early in the morning. They are anonymous Barcelona citizens, made of flesh and bone. They are permanent residents or temporary visitors who rely on this unstable, tedious, and physically demanding activity to make a living.

From Citizen to Character

I love this shot because it shows the "before." They have their assigned areas, their timetables, and their official permits, but the transformation happens right here on the ground. To attain that wonderful final look we are all familiar with, they sometimes need more than an hour to be ready.

It is not strange to see them arrive partly dressed to save time, sitting cross-legged on the cold stones. Here, her "vanity table" is just a small stepladder and the pavement. You can see the focus as she applies that elaborate pink and black eye makeup with a tiny handheld mirror, ignoring the world walking by. The contrast between the fantasy of the costume and the mundane reality of the plastic water bottle and the gym bag really hits home.

The Risks of the Trade

After all that preparation—fitting into impossible costumes and applying layers of paint—it may happen that the weather suddenly plays tricks on them and spoils the performance. Of course, no insurance company will compensate for the cancellation of the show, nor will the City Hall sympathize with their cause.

Las Ramblas certainly wouldn't be that great without the living statues, so any help to pay for such a respectable effort is always more than welcome. Of course, I don't tip them if I capture them before the acting begins, as in this image—this is just a candid moment. But when they are "on stage," I try not to sneak between tourists to steal a picture. A good smiling face, nicely caught in connivance with the camera after you have expressed your gratitude (and dropped a coin), can really make the difference.

Jogging in La Rambla, Barcelona

Jogging in Las Ramblas de Barcelona is so difficult that instead of that we should call it dribbling or slalom. In spite of that, stubborn athletes you can find all year long in any part of the world. I don't know, you are in the middle of a safari in Africa and suddenly you see a jogger waving at you right behind the lions.

Joggers do take it very seriously sometimes. An old man may be mugged in a dark suburban street while a person in a hooded sweater passes by swiftly as a ghost in a Japanese horror movie, unaware of the crime and lost in that podcast on the benefits of sports, so lost that may even end up in the most transited and smoggy street of the city.

In our case here, there was some kind of cosmic impasse and for some milliseconds there was no one near the jogger, probably due to the use of a special force field or protective shield invisible to the human eye. Come to think of it, she was just a lucky tourist on the wrong street.

Las Ramblas: The Most Frequented Street in Barcelona

Las Ramblas, a small scale Catalan version of the Champs Elysées, is perhaps Barcelona's most frequented street and not precisely by the locals. Hordes of tourists wander up and down around the clock under the plataneros (hybrid plane trees) of the famous walk. This is how it looked on a Saturday morning last month. Recently, authorities met the local guild of stall owners to listen to their complaints and they have started cleaning Las Ramblas from pickpockets, trileros (a sort of shell game swindlers) and other petty criminals. In return the stalls will be replaced more than a meter backwards so they are not another obstacle in the way. Workers alleged that the living statues are also responsible for jamming the area as each of them gathers their own circle of admirers. Besides, there is the ever growing number of visitors. Did you know that according to a recent report by Saffron Brand Consultants, Barcelona is the third most attractive city for tourism, business and foreign investment after Paris and London from a list of 72 European cities. The data was obtained after interviewing 2000 people and considering different factors such as location, culture, history, food, business potential and residents attitude towards visitors.

Now for you to rejoice here are some breathtaking shots: The Earth From Above via The Boston Globe

Street Artists: Las Ramblas Clown, Barcelona

Among dozens of human statues in Las Ramblas de Barcelona you may now and then find other "minor", less sophisticated and striking ways of artistry equally respectable and venerable as is the case of the Clown. See this artist in context using my geotagged Barcelona photos set on Flickr.

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Biker and Skeleton in Las Ramblas, Barcelona, Spain

Cycling with the Skeleton Crew

If you are a regular on Las Ramblas de Barcelona, you definitely know this duo. It is a familiar sight: the man and the skeleton, pedaling in tandem through the static crowd. It is one of those mechanical setups that is just fun to watch, as the skeleton mimics every move the biker makes.

I was actually used to watching him dressed in completely different colors—usually darker, more steampunk tones. (You can check out his old look in my previous post: Human Statue in Las Ramblas - Biker). But this time, he has reinvented himself with a ghostly, textured white finish that makes him look like a statue carved from rough stone.

A Thumbs Up for the Camera

The details here are great, from the tall top hat down to the round sunglasses that add a bit of "cool" to the spooky vibe. And he is a pro; he had no problem pausing his eternal bike ride to pose for the camera the second the coin hit the bottom of his tin can.

That thumbs-up is the universal sign of "transaction complete" on the Ramblas. I also like how the background—the "Vien" sign and the hotel entrance—frames him perfectly in the city's hustle, even while he and his bony friend are frozen in their own little world.

Small Colorful Bouquets of Paper Flowers in Las Ramblas, Barcelona, Spain

In trying to keep the colorful posts cause I think most of all like bright colors, at least that's my impression, I chose a bunch of small paper flower bouquets on sale at the stalls along Rambla dels Flors. I am not happy with the level of detail, that is, upon taking a very close look at the flowers but it was almost dark, I had to fire my flash, ask for permission to shoot, watch not to be shoved onto the flowers by passerbies, hold one cigar in my left hand which the stall owner asked me to keep an eye on and last but not least finish fast so my wife and daughter didn't get too tired of waiting.

Save the Earth: Portrait of Human Statue in Las Ramblas, Barcelona

Rescuing Mother Nature from the Archives

I decided to dig into the hard drive today and rescue an old character from the archives in a shot I hadn't published before. It is this incredible "Mother Nature" figure—or at least, that is what I call him. It is definitely a he, but the spirit of the character is pure Earth.

He is dressed as some sort of tree or forest deity, covered in earth-toned body paint with delicate vines tracing up his arms and face. But the real showstopper is that headpiece. It looks like a mass of dried roots exploding backward from his head, defying gravity as if the wind is permanently blowing through them.

The Missing Sphere

In this particular angle, the transparent sphere he usually holds is almost hidden, tucked away near his chest. You can just barely catch the glint of the glass. If you want to see the full setup where the sphere is totally visible, you should definitely check out my original post: Street Artists in Las Ramblas - Human Statue.

There is something about his expression here—solemn, looking off into the distance, hand raised—that feels like a warning or a plea. Maybe "Save the Earth" isn't just a catchy title; maybe it's exactly what he is trying to tell us while we rush past him to buy souvenirs.

Mermaid Captured in La Rambla, Barcelona

Fishing for Sirens on Las Ramblas

I captured this mermaid with my trusty Nikon D70s while going on a little "fishing expedition" for human statues along Las Ramblas. And let me tell you, there were plenty of fishy things in that sea of tourists—mostly pickpockets and trileros (shell-game swindlers) trying to trick people with their cards. Those are dangerous species you definitely want to avoid playing with.

The Modern Odysseus

But this encounter was different. I felt charmed and subdued by her irresistible, silent chant. In the spirit of Greek mythology, I almost tried to tie myself up to that black cast-iron lamp post standing right next to her and cover my ears like a modern Odysseus to resist the temptation.

But it was no use. She pulled out a small jewel box covered in shells, insinuated a silver-painted smile, and I succumbed instantly. One more euro for the catch of the day!

Spanish Paintings in Las Ramblas, Barcelona: Collage

Here is a collage of Spanish paintings about topics such as bullfighting and flamenco plus some everyday scenes of Barri Gotic or El Raval streets, two quarters nearby Las Ramblas in Barcelona. Paintings like these are frequently ignored by Barcelonians and I guess this happens in other cities like say Paris, London...,but they obviously trap tourists like ants on a sugar lump. I don't say it isn't art but they are mostly centered on cliches and contribute to enhance them. When we visit Paris or London they do the same to us and we bite on the bait! Come to think of it I would do the same if I were to paint for money. So this is not the artist's fault, it is the cultural authorities' responsibility to promote a more representative art without forgetting, and I stress this, the cliches which are also part, in this case, of Spanish culture.

Seasoned Human Statue Sitting in Las Ramblas, Barcelona

The Kafka of Las Ramblas?

Here is yet another street artist—a human statue—that I captured while walking down Las Ramblas towards the sea. You might recognize him from my previous post, but this time I caught him in profile, which I think adds a whole new layer of mystery to the character.

The "weathered man" was sitting on his chair, showing off those impeccably painted clothes and glasses while he appeared to read a book (or maybe write one in his head). In this light, the silver paint really highlights the deep lines in his face, giving him a dignified, aged look.

The Man Behind the Silver Glasses

Honestly, I couldn't really tell if he was sleeping or secretly watching people drop coins into his can. His eyes were completely hidden behind a thin, reddish-orange coat of paint right in the middle of his spectacles. It’s a clever trick—he can see you, but you can never quite catch his gaze.

The whole disguise made him look incredibly elegant, like some famous intellectual from the past frozen in thought. He reminds me of a silver Franz Kafka, quietly observing the absurdity of the world passing by. Of course, he wouldn't confirm or deny that accusation—being a statue and all, he’s the strong, silent type.

Human Statues in La Rambla de Barcelona: Biker

Human Statues in La Rambla de Barcelona really have an astonishing imagination. How do you dig a bearded man in a thick suit looking like Uncle Sam or ZZ Top, escorted by two skinny companions (two skeletons) that pedal along with him in unison?. 

A lot has been said in Barcelona Photoblog about street artists, statues in La Rambla de Barcelona and their predominant role in broadcasting a good image of the city. I suggest you use the Google label below to search for more. Of course you can always visit my Street Artists photoset at Flickr. Better than that? Come to Barcelona for Easter and watch them live!