November 04, 2010

Ramblas Lady Statue Lost in Her Own Thoughts

Barcelona-Photoblog-by-Carlos-Lorenzo-[Ramblas-Lady-Statue-Lost-in-Her-Own-Thoughts]

Walking the Tightrope of Las Ramblas

If you have ever been to Barcelona, you know that Las Ramblas is not just a street. It is a living, breathing beast. It is a kilometer of pure chaos that stretches from the city center down to the sea, packed tight with tourists, flower stalls, bird sellers (once upon a time), and the constant hum of a thousand conversations happening at once. It is the sort of place where you have to watch your wallet, watch your step, and watch the world go by all at the same time.

I have walked this pavement more times than I can count. Usually, I am just trying to get from point A to point B without bumping into someone dragging a suitcase. But every now and then, I stop. I stop because amidst all that movement—the rush of the locals and the wandering of the visitors—there are these islands of total stillness. The living statues.

You have seen them. They paint themselves in silver or gold, or they dress up like cowboys, dragons, or historical figures. They stand perfectly still, defying the human urge to itch or blink, just waiting for the sound of a coin hitting their hat so they can come to life for a few seconds. It is a fun little game. We pay a euro, they move, we smile, and we keep walking.

But recently, I realized that the "show" is not actually the most interesting part.

The Mystery of the Lady in Red

I took this photo on a recent walk down the boulevard. It stopped me in my tracks, not because of what she was doing, but because of what she wasn't doing. She wasn't trying to catch my eye. She wasn't posing. She was just... being.

She was sitting there, engulfed in this massive, incredible dress. The texture of it looked like crushed velvet or maybe dyed paper, layered in deep reds and burnt oranges, like a volcano or a dying fire. It is a stunning piece of costume design.

I do not know whether she impersonates a flamenco dancer or an opera singer. Maybe she is supposed to be a character from a specific play I don't know, or maybe she is just a generic symbol of "Spanish Passion" invented to look good in tourists' vacation photos. Honestly, it doesn't really matter who she is supposed to be.

As I said in a previous post, human statues in Las Ramblas are much more interesting when they are offstage, when you see the person behind the character. That is exactly what I saw here. The curtain was down, even though she was sitting right in the middle of the street.

The Moment the Mask Slips

There is something really vulnerable about catching a performer on their break. When they are "on," they are untouchable. They are protected by their paint and their props. They are staring right through you with a practiced, intense gaze. But when they take five minutes to rest? That armor falls off.

In this shot, you can see the contrast so clearly. Look at the background. You have the yellow construction poles—ugly, bright, and utilitarian. You have a guy in white work clothes walking past, and a woman in jeans on her phone, rushing somewhere. That is the real world. It is grey, busy, and undistinguished.

Then you have her. A splash of fantasy sitting right on the dirty pavement. But look at her posture. She is slumped over a little bit. She is holding a fan, but she isn't using it to flirt or pose; she is just holding it because her hands need somewhere to go. She is looking down, completely lost in her own thoughts.

The Hardest Performance of All

I stood there for a moment and just wondered what she was thinking about. Was she counting how much money she had made so far? Was she thinking about how much her feet hurt? Maybe she was making a mental grocery list for later, or worrying about rent, or just wishing the construction noise behind her would stop for five minutes.

It hit me then. Lost in her own thoughts, this lady is in some way acting. She is in the middle of yet another performance, the most difficult, the most demanding: trying to make a living in the real world.

We tend to romanticize street artists. We think it is a bohemian, free life. But looking at her, I saw the grind. I saw the work. It is not just about standing still; it is about the mental stamina it takes to put on a costume, paint your face, go out into the heat or the cold, and rely on the kindness of strangers to pay your bills. That is a heavy weight to carry, heavier than that dress she is wearing.

Reflections on the Sidewalk

I think that is why I love this photo. If she were looking at the camera and smiling, it would just be a postcard. It would be a souvenir. But because she is looking away, it becomes a story.

It reminds me that everyone we walk past on Las Ramblas—or any street in any city—is putting on a show of some kind. We all have our costumes. Maybe you wear a suit and tie to the office; maybe you wear a uniform; maybe you put on a "customer service voice" when you answer the phone. We all freeze up and play our parts when people are watching.

But we all have those moments, like this lady, where we just need to sit down and stare at the ground for a second. We have to drop the act and just deal with the reality of being tired, or stressed, or bored.

So, the next time you are walking down Las Ramblas and you see one of these statues, go ahead and drop a coin in the hat. They earned it. But take a second to look for the person underneath the paint, too. The interesting stuff isn't the robot dance or the frozen bow. The interesting stuff is the human being who is working hard to make a little bit of magic in a loud, busy, messy world.

November 01, 2010

Big Brother in Las Ramblas: Crime Ridden Streets or Privacy Breach?

Street cameras at Las Ramblas, Barcelona

Anyone that has visited or lives in Barcelona is perfectly aware of the fact that Las Ramblas is not the safest place in the world. The more crowded it gets the more pickpockets per square meter there are. The situation was getting so bad that extra surveillance was imperative and there came the cameras. As a result of this, you see less suspicious faces (thieves have this peculiar look when they are just about to steal) that undoubtedly are neither tourists nor locals in their daily routine simply because they have been pushed to neighboring narrow alleys away from big brother's perimetral vision. Once again punishment prevails over prevention. The root of petty offenses and misdemeanors lies many times in poverty, precariousness and exclusion and that should be the target point of our authorities before metastasis arrives.

October 31, 2010

Casa Dolors Calm by Josep Vilaseca i Casanovas, Rambla Catalunya 54, Barcelona

Casa Dolors Calm by Josep Vilaseca i Casanovas, Rambla Catalunya 54, Barcelona, Spain

Rambla Catalunya in Barcelona is splattered with architecture jewels of different styles and periods, most of them illustrious samples of Modernisme or Catalan Art Nouveau. In fact, there are more here (over 20) than along neighboring street Passeig de Gracia. One that I specially admire is Casa Dolors Calm by Josep Vilaseca i Casanovas that dates back to 1903. The distinguishing wood and glass gallery and the floral motifs on the façade are worth mentioning. Here is an interesting link to many representative buildings in our city where a small pic shows a front view. As you see the original is rather sober in appearance so I decided to add some infrared color that highlighted the glass panes and the wooden framework of the gallery. Maybe you are interested in other works by this artist like: Casa Bruno Quadros or the Arch of Triumph (Arc de Triomf)
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