Human Statues: Make-Up Time

The Open-Air Dressing Room of Las Ramblas

When you are trapped in the living stream of Las Ramblas, being shoved along from one end to the other by the crowd, it is easy to forget the obvious: these human statues are not part of the urban furniture. They aren't a permanent exhibition like the streetlamps or the paving stones.

No one comes and unloads them from a truck to gently place them on their improvised pedestals early in the morning. They are anonymous Barcelona citizens, made of flesh and bone. They are permanent residents or temporary visitors who rely on this unstable, tedious, and physically demanding activity to make a living.

From Citizen to Character

I love this shot because it shows the "before." They have their assigned areas, their timetables, and their official permits, but the transformation happens right here on the ground. To attain that wonderful final look we are all familiar with, they sometimes need more than an hour to be ready.

It is not strange to see them arrive partly dressed to save time, sitting cross-legged on the cold stones. Here, her "vanity table" is just a small stepladder and the pavement. You can see the focus as she applies that elaborate pink and black eye makeup with a tiny handheld mirror, ignoring the world walking by. The contrast between the fantasy of the costume and the mundane reality of the plastic water bottle and the gym bag really hits home.

The Risks of the Trade

After all that preparation—fitting into impossible costumes and applying layers of paint—it may happen that the weather suddenly plays tricks on them and spoils the performance. Of course, no insurance company will compensate for the cancellation of the show, nor will the City Hall sympathize with their cause.

Las Ramblas certainly wouldn't be that great without the living statues, so any help to pay for such a respectable effort is always more than welcome. Of course, I don't tip them if I capture them before the acting begins, as in this image—this is just a candid moment. But when they are "on stage," I try not to sneak between tourists to steal a picture. A good smiling face, nicely caught in connivance with the camera after you have expressed your gratitude (and dropped a coin), can really make the difference.

Fish Market, La Boqueria, Barcelona

The fish section of La Boqueria market is not only a good place to buy fresh fish but also an attractive spot to take your camera and let go your imagination. I think this image is rather cruel or looks like some still life painting perhaps but that's the way it is with food. We kill to survive. I hope someone bought the rest of this fish. At least, they didn't have to use its head as promotional bait in vain. La Boqueria is one of the most important markets in Barcelona and sells a great variety of products. It is said that what you don't find there you won't find elsewhere. I can't guarantee that but its stalls are a pleasure to the eye and a must-see during your stay in the city. Here is an old post with another image and a video: Visit La Boqueria Market in Barcelona.

Cafe Zurich, Pl. Catalunya 1, Barcelona

This is a snap I took of famous Café Zurich located at carrer Pelai 39 or Pl. Catalunya,1. Better said, this is a reproduction of the original.

The well known café was founded on November 30th, 1920 on a canteen for trains going to Sarriá. In the 30s one coffee there would only cost you 1 or 1,50 pesetas! I digress.

Back in 1994 the whole block called the Golden Triangle was completely restored and important department stores and offices were built. Café Zurich was no exception and according to purists it is not the same in spite of official promises to keep it as it was. It is a good place for coffee and pastry although not the best.

Tourists seem to enjoy the terraces as you can see in the picture. Locals do the usual thing avoid it during the high season.